Spaghetti with Pancetta & Creamed Corn

As if pancetta and creamed corn weren't good enough, Rach added our favourite carb: spaghetti!

SERVINGS 4

ngredients

• 4 large ears corn, husked

• 1/2 cup half-and-half or whole milk

• 1 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

• 1 tbsp. olive oil

• 1/3 lb. smoked pancetta or meaty bacon, finely chopped

• Salt

• 1 lb. spaghetti

• 1 bunch scallions, chopped, whites and greens separated

• 2 jalapeño chiles, chopped

• 3 cloves garlic, chopped

• Pepper

• A handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves with tender stems, chopped

Preparation

• Bring a large pot of water to a boil for the pasta.

• Invert a small bowl inside a large bowl. Stand 1 ear of corn on the smaller bowl. Using a sharp knife, cut the kernels from the cob. Run the back of the knife along the cob to scrape the corn milk from the cob. Repeat with the remaining ears of corn. Add half the corn to a high-powered blender or a food processor. Add the half-and-half and Parm; puree. Transfer the corn puree to a large deep skillet.

• In a large skillet, heat the oil, one turn of the pan, over medium-high. Add the pancetta. Cook, stirring often, until the fat begins to render, 2 to 3 minutes.

• Salt the boiling water and add the pasta. Cook until 1 minute shy of the package directions. Scoop out about 1/2 cup of the cooking water. Drain the pasta.

• Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to a plate. Add the remaining corn kernels, the scallion whites, Chiles, and garlic to the skillet. Cook, stirring often, until the scallions are soft, 3 to 4 minutes; season with salt and pepper.

• Add the pasta to the corn puree and, using tongs, toss over medium-high heat until the corn is heated through, about 1 minute, Serve in shallow bowls or on a large platter. Top with the corn kernels, scallion greens, pancetta, and parsley.

Jamaican Pepper Shrimp Recipe

Stewed in a flavorful aromatic broth loaded with onion, garlic, allspice, thyme, and plenty of spicy Scotch bonnet peppers, this Jamaican roadside snack can now be made right in your kitchen.

Drive around Jamaica and you’ll whizz by food stalls at the roadside, small stands with fish roasting on grill grates and stock pots brimming with soup roiling over open flames. If you're on one of these drives, and if your eyes catch a vendor with small clear bags stuffed with bright red shrimp, you should slow down and try some.

Pepper shrimp is a street food born in Middle Quarters, a village in the Parish of St. Elizabeth, tucked next to Black River, where the shrimp are caught. The shrimp are frequently referred to as crayfish, though there are two different species fished from the Black River, one a native freshwater shrimp and the other an invasive crayfish. Plucked from the river in bamboo traps, a tool and method of catching freshwater shrimp believed to have been brought to the island by enslaved West Africans some 300 years ago, the river shrimp are small with tender shells, and you can eat them whole. But because of fluctuations in supply due to the effects of weather, season, and demand, they are used interchangeably with saltwater shrimp; it's not uncommon to see vendors selling both river and ocean shrimp side by side, for the customer to choose.

Their distinctive bright red color is both an advertisement and a warning: these shrimp are hot. For those who want to make pepper shrimp at home, the vivid color can be the hardest element to replicate, since it's produced by a combination of the cooked shells, the intense number of crushed Scotch bonnet peppers, and, often, a dose of red food coloring. While there's no harm in using food coloring to make pepper shrimp, I wanted to find another, less artificial ingredient that could stain my shrimp red, ideally while also paying homage to Jamaica's culinary past.

That led me to annatto, which is also known as achiote. Annatto trees, from the bark to the seeds, were used to color fabrics and skin various shades of red and orange by the indigenous Taino peoples of Jamaica; it has also long been used as food coloring for yellow cheeses, and sometimes by little girls who want to wear "lipstick." When Spanish colonizers arrived on Jamaican shores, the annatto tree was so pervasive in the St. Mary port, they renamed the location from Guayguata, its indigenous Taino name, to Annotto Bay ("annotto" is a variant spelling of annatto). Today, annatto is widely available in seed, paste, powder, and oil form, and while it has a subtle earthy and smoky flavor, it's primarily used for its color.

In this recipe I use annatto powder and, optionally, annatto seed oil, allowing the shrimp to marinate in the mixture to absorb some of that signature tint. I've also scaled back on the heat level you'd likely find in pepper shrimp sold in Jamaica, but it's still spicy. That said, you have lots of control over the intensity of the chile heat: Chopping the peppers more finely and including their seeds will deliver the hottest shrimp (as would increasing the total number of Scotch bonnets in the recipe), while removing the seeds, or even leaving the peppers whole, lowers the heat even more. No matter what you do, be sure to wear gloves when cutting the peppers or a mindless rub of the eyes a little later will leave you in excruciating pain.

If you can’t find Scotch bonnets, you can use a tablespoon of bottled Scotch bonnet pepper sauce as a substitute, or you can search for the ripest habaneros you can find; however, habaneros have a zippier, more direct heat than the sweet, slow-building Scotch bonnets, so you may not want to use as many.

Why It Works

• Annatto powder and (optionally) annatto seed oil deepen the shrimp's signature red color.

• Altering the way in which you prepare the Scotch bonnet peppers changes the levels of spiciness in the final dish.

YIELD:Serves 4 as an appetizer or snack

ACTIVE TIME:30 minutes

TOTAL TIME:1 hour

Ingredients

• 3 Scotch bonnet chile peppers (about 3/4 ounce; 20g)

• 1 pound (455g) large shell-on shrimp, preferably head-on, rinsed

• Half of 1 medium (8-ounce; 225g) red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely diced

• Half of 1 medium (8-ounce; 225g) yellow onion, finely diced

• 4 sprigs fresh thyme

• 3 medium garlic cloves, minced

• 1 tablespoon (15ml) annatto oil or neutral oil such as vegetable oil

• 1 1/2 teaspoons (6g) Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for table salt use half as much by volume or the same weight, plus more if needed

• 1 1/2 teaspoons (6g) annatto (achiote) powder

• 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

• 1/2 teaspoon onion powder

• 1 1/2 cups (355ml) water

• 2 tablespoons (30ml) distilled white vinegar

• 6 allspice berries

Directions

1. Wearing latex gloves, prepare Scotch bonnet peppers; preparation will depend on your heat tolerance. For very spicy heat, stem and chop or slice peppers, keeping seeds and white pith; for medium heat, stem and seed peppers, then chop or slice; for mild heat, leave peppers whole, including stems.

2. In a medium bowl, add shrimp with Scotch bonnets, bell pepper, onion, thyme, garlic, annatto oil (or neutral oil), salt, annatto powder, garlic powder, and onion powder. Stir to combine well. Cover with plastic and refrigerate at least 30 minutes and up to overnight.

3. Using a gloved hand, scrape aromatic vegetables and herbs off shrimp and set shrimp aside in a clean bowl. Add water to vegetable marinade, then pour mixture into a stainless-steel skillet large enough to hold shrimp in a single layer.

4. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, add allspice berries, then cover and cook at a simmer for 15 minutes.

5. Add vinegar, turn heat to medium-low, and add shrimp to the skillet in a single layer. Cover and cook for 2 minutes.

6. Turn off heat, uncover, and stir until shrimp are just cooked through and no longer translucent, about 2 minutes longer. Season with additional salt, if desired.

7. Transfer shrimp to a serving plate and let cool slightly. Discard cooking liquid and vegetables. Serve shrimp warm or at room temperature, peeling them at the table.

Make-Ahead and Storage

The shrimp can be refrigerated in their marinade for up to 12 hours before cooking.

Easy to Make Serious Eats' Halal Cart-Style Chicken and Rice With White Sauce Within 1 hour

This utterly faithful recipe perfectly recreates a New York City halal-cart classic: Chicken and Rice with White Sauce . The chicken is marinated with herbs, lemon, and spices; the rice golden; the sauce, as white and creamy as ever.

Manhattan is home to many smells, but perhaps the most delicious is the chicken-y, savoury scent that emanates from the city's countless halal carts. Serving lunch to late-night, these carts dish up a container full of chicken rice that tastes like nothing else, crave-worthy and totally singular. To taste this particular chicken and rice you can get yourself to Midtown or try this home version by Kenji, a spot-on rendition of the street food classic. Marinated in oregano, lemon, and coriander, chicken thighs are browned, chopped into chunks and served over a pile of turmeric-yellow rice. Of course, it wouldn't be halal-cart style without the ubiquitous (and none too fancy) salad of iceberg and tomatoes, and that mysterious sweet-sour-tangy white sauce that just has to be ladled all over the chicken and rice for true street-style authenticity.

ACTIVE TIME: 45 minutes

TOTAL TIME: 1 hour

Why It Works

• Chicken thighs are less prone to drying out like chicken breast can be, guaranteeing tender and juicy results.

• A combination of mayonnaise and Greek yogurt, plus seasoning, nail that classic halal-cart white sauce.

• Iceberg lettuce and tomato may seem like strange additions, but they're essential elements of this famous New York City street food.

Ingredients

For the chicken:

• 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano

• 1/2 teaspoon ground coriander seed

• 3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped (about 1 1/2 tablespoons)

• 1/4 cup light olive oil

• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, trimmed of excess fat (6 to 8 thighs)

• 1 tablespoon vegetable or canola oil

For the rice:

• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

• 1/2 teaspoon turmeric

• 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

• 1 1/2 cups long-grain or Basmati rice

• 2 1/2 cups chicken broth

• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the sauce:

• 1/2 cup mayonnaise

• 1/2 cup Greek yogurt

• 1 tablespoon sugar

• 2 tablespoons white vinegar

• 1 teaspoon lemon juice

• 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

To serve:

• 1 head iceberg lettuce, shredded

• 1 large tomato, cut into wedges

• Fluffy pocketless pita bread, brushed in butter, lightly toasted, and cut into 1 × 3-inch strips

• Harissa-style hot sauce, for serving

Directions

• For the chicken: Combine the lemon juice, oregano, coriander, garlic, and olive oil in a blender. Blend until smooth. Season the marinade to taste with kosher salt and black pepper. Place the chicken in a 1-gallon zipper-lock bag and add half of the marinade (reserve the remaining marinade in the refrigerator). Turn the chicken to coat, seal the bag, and marinate the chicken in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour and up to 4 hours, turning occasionally to redistribute the marinade (see Note).

• Remove the chicken from the bag and pat it dry with paper towels. Season with kosher salt and pepper, going heavy on the pepper. Heat the oil in a 12-inch heavy-bottomed cast iron or stainless-steel skillet over medium-high heat until it is lightly smoking. Add the chicken pieces and cook without disturbing until they are lightly browned on the first side, about 4 minutes. Using tongs, flip the chicken. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until the chicken is cooked through and the centre of each thigh registers 165°F. on an instant-read thermometer, about 6 minutes longer. Transfer the chicken to a cutting board and allow cooling for 5 minutes.
  

• Using a chef’s knife, roughly chop the chicken into 1/2- to 1/4-inch chunks. Transfer to a medium bowl, add the remaining marinade, cover loosely with plastic, and refrigerate while you cook the rice and prepare the sauce.

• For the rice: Melt the butter over medium heat in a large Dutch oven. Add the turmeric and cumin and cook until fragrant but not browned, about 1 minute. Add the rice and stir to coat. Cook, stirring frequently, until the rice is lightly toasted, about 4 minutes. Add the chicken broth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Raise the heat to high and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce to a simmer, and cook for 15 minutes without disturbing. Remove from the heat and allow resting until the water is completely absorbed and the rice is tender, about 15 minutes.

• For the sauce: In a small bowl, combine the mayonnaise, yogurt, sugar, vinegar, lemon juice, parsley, and 2 teaspoons of black pepper. Whisk to combine. Season to taste with salt.

• To serve: Return the entire contents of the chicken bowl (chicken, marinade, and all juices) to the skillet. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until heated through. To serve, divide the rice, lettuce, tomato, and toasted Pita bread evenly among four to six plates. Pile the chicken on top of the rice. Top with the white sauce and hot sauce. Serve immediately, passing extra sauce at the table.

• Note: Do not marinate the chicken longer than 4 hours, or it’ll get a mushy texture. If you must delay cooking the chicken for any reason, remove it from the marinade, pat it dry with paper towels, and refrigerate until ready to cook.